How To Fix The Sensor Light On K1000

Burnt Umber says:

Sounds like the calorie-free meter is Cleaved.

accept the photographic camera to a improve repair shop. A good CLA will cost almost threescore Pounds including a new light meter. Getting a new i off Ebay may be just another crap shoot.
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Chrìs says:

Are you doing this indoors? My K-1000 does that in low low-cal situations, and I think it's normal. Take the camera outside or point it direct at an exposed calorie-free bulb. Also, play with the ASA setting. I think a repair shop is premature.
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paul messerschmidt (europe) says:

Are the batteries in the right way round?

The meter is the big weak point of the K1000, in my opinion. It's accurate and reliable (commonly) simply information technology'south not at all sensitive. I mostly utilize a separate lightmeter with all my cameras, just with this one especially.
A proficient meter (new or secondhand) - i you can use even in very low light - will probably cost more than than £40 but for serious film photography it's almost essential - as well as fun, and you'll learn a lot from it (plus it'll terminate you wasting flick).
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SilverChrome7 says:

Even indoors the meter should move if yous betoken it at a bright light source like a lamp.
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Louis Reynolds says:

Thank you guys, great help - I accept tried the light meter outside and on lamps but still nothing happens.
I will look into buying an external lite meter but I'one thousand not sure about how user-friendly it would exist? Property something else in some other mitt while belongings my pride and joy in the other D: but I will look into it. How do they connect to the camera every bit well?

Thanks
Louis
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paul messerschmidt (europe) says:

Apparently using a meter is a flake inconvenient, but not very.
Y'all don't connect them to the camera - you put them in a purse
or a pocket or hang them circular your neck.
You take a reading, choose a combination of aperture and
shutter speed, then set these on the camera.

This 1 is small and light and plasticky but good:
www.sekonic.com/Products/Fifty-208/Overview.aspx

The merely other meter I have is this quondam one, which is superb
(but no spot or flash metering without extras).
I got a second (spare) ane for something similar £threescore on eBay.

profisix oleh jdandsad@gmail.com

(not my photograph)
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SilverChrome7 says:

In that location are some tiny light meters that attach to the hot shoe of a camera such equally the Voigtlander VC Speed Meter II. It has LED lights that signal over/under and correct exposure. These blazon of meters aren't as fancy as traditional paw-held lite meters just they piece of work substantially the same as the in-camera meter.
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Johnny Martyr says:

Handheld meters are dandy for shooting landscapes, inanimate objects and in any situation where the quality of light is not irresolute apace.

For concerts, available light aboveboard portraits and other types of photography, a coupled, congenital-in meter is your best bet and part of the reason they be.

So my suggestion is not to brand decisions most how you are going to shoot based around what equipment you lot currently have and how well it works or non. Decide what type of photography you want to practice and purchase the proper equipment for it.

Personally, I like Burnt Umber'due south annotate the best here. Take proper care of the camera you currently take by getting it serviced. If you purchase another vintage photographic camera, you're just rolling the dice that something else isn't a trouble. Same bargain if you purchase a vintage/used meter. Besides, if y'all buy a handheld meter or prune-on meter, this volition effectively slow downwardly your power to meter so only do so if this is acceptable for the blazon of photography you use your K1000 for.

I recently also purchased a Voigtlander VC II meter and love it but it'due south not coupled. So y'all have the added step, as you do with a handheld, of transposing the settings from the meter to the camera. Simply a built-in meter will reply to your shutter/aperture/ISO changes reflexively.

And while the K1000 does not have the greatest EV range of all the congenital-in meters out at that place, I discover it totally effective for print film. For slide picture show, peculiarly of things similar landscapes, in that location'south no good reason non to apply a reliable handheld meter though!

Expert luck in whatever yous choose.
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edjpgcom says:

External meters will not connect to the camera - y'all will have to transfer the settings yourself (and non able to look through the viewfinder while doing it.)

If y'all have a smartphone, there may be a light meter app you can apply. This will utilise the photographic camera sensor in the phone to measure light. Not very cool/retro but it saves carrying 1 more thing.
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Pastrami Vicar aka Salamander "Noodle" Turgidson says:

Sunny 16.
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paul messerschmidt (europe) says:

Y'all tin can also use a digital camera to practise the metering.
I have an old very meaty Samsung that I notice useful in
all sorts of ways working out my film shots.
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RogerCGreenPhotography says:

Have you "tried" to learn the "Sunny 16" dominion.
Take the bloody bombardment and chuck it.
If it too sunny ,similar sand on a beach or snow in the mountains you need something more than 16. like a 22 or a 32
If it is to dark you need a wider f terminate.xi: viii: four.five etc

Trust u.s.a. on this one.
I've had my K-one thousand for over fourty years without a battery.
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paul messerschmidt (europe) says:

(If yous wait at Louis'south uploads, y'all'll see that Sunny 16
would be completely useless for over 90% of them.
Unless you only take photos in a very narrow range of
conditions (daylight, out in the open), yous need a meter.)
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dependent value [dihapus] bilang:

I would heed to Roger higher up. This Roger--me--bought three K1000SE's before I finally got 1 with a working meter. Even so, it's off i stop and has to be compensated for in the ASA setting.

All the same, earlier I stubbornly bought my third i I had shot several rolls through the second one with the broken meter and used sunny 16.
These shots were all fine.

Film is and then flexible these days that you tin get away with it. I do a lot of night shooting, too. And, at night, even using my camera with the working meter, I don't meter any shots--I shoot them all wide open at f1.four on a 50mm lens fix at one/threescore (1/30 if I am feeling very centered!), with either 200 or 400 film. This works like a charm.

Broken meters plague the ranks of sometime movie cameras and they tin be had quite cheaply on E-Bay or KEH or other camera stores.

By the fashion, I don't entirely trust the meter on my nowadays K1000SE. Even though it works, it is lazy and sometimes I merely can't wait for the needle to make up one's mind where information technology volition settle so I but utilise sunny 16 and it always works. This is the beauty of motion-picture show vs digital. Correct me if I'm incorrect, but I would think that digital is rather more than fussy almost being exposed perfectly than movie.
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RogerCGreenPhotography says:

oh I forgot. If you lot take an I-Pod apply its Pocket light meter.
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Johnny Martyr says:

Tigersight: "Correct me if I'm wrong, merely I would think that digital is rather more fussy most existence exposed perfectly than movie. "

Digital raw has aplenty latitude to shoot via the Sunny xvi method.

Digital jpg probably does not, depending on the specific sensor.

Impress film has more than ample latitude to shoot via Sunny 16.

Slide picture does not.

I just want to be clear that I'm not advocating anyone not learn and employ Sunny sixteen and guessing exposure because fifty-fifty when using the nicest meter in the world, yous should be questioning its readings based on your personal knowledge and experience. However, to assume that Sunny 16 works for every subject/scene is just that, an assumption.

If you're shooting landscapes, Sunny 16 is great. But you lot probably wouldn't want to use Sunny xvi, say, when information technology's not sunny....

Employ all the tools in your toolbelt.

I currently own 3 K1000's, all with perfectly functional and reliable lite meters that react very quickly and tightly to changes in light and settings. I've owned probably somewhere in the neighborhood of twenty and the only 1 whose meter did not work was one I bought for parts. Even the 3 parts K1000's I currently take have working meters. One of the reasons I recommend K1000'due south is that fifty-fifty the meters are rugged, unlike many other classic cameras such every bit Spotmatics.

It's nice to see folks who continue to make apply of cameras with expressionless or malfunctioning meters and good to see people encourage others to larn how to expose without a meter, which is crucial, but I besides call up information technology's prissy to take care of ones gear, purchase gear that suits your needs (tehre are some very beautiful pre-metering Pentax bodies out at that place) and support the repair community.
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Louis Reynolds says:

Thank you all, I profoundly capeesh all te feedback and I'thou so please you've all taken an involvement in my needs (Paul for looking at my photos to check my needs, thanks)

I take downloaded the iPhone app Roger, and it is very good thank you! I tested information technology with my dslr on manual and followed all the settings and the results were very authentic!

I didn't think of using my dslr for metering, y'all guys are just great! I can clinch yous that I will definitely experience certain virtually using my beautiful k1000 now.

Cheers so much (over again),
Louis
:D
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tattoobatman says:

Dont worry about the ol meter simply shoot!
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Louis Reynolds says:

What do yous mean? If y'all mean the light meter, I can't just shoot because as I said I am very new to manual, and then I will have no idea what I'm doing with the settings
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paul messerschmidt (europe) says:

I think when y'all switch from auto (digital) to manual, you start to realise how incredibly complicated the whole business of light, metering and exposure really is. Later all these decades, I'grand nonetheless making mistakes and still learning - but I honey that feeling that I am nonetheless learning and will never know it all.
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bloewy says:

garryscamera.com/
For $53 US they will CLA your K1000 including:
"Eliminating original problem or defect, consummate overhaul maintenance (shutter lubrication, shutter speed adjustment, meter scale, light seal replacement). '
&
"Meter inoperative/dead, Advance machinery stuck, Shutter volition not release."

They have my Nikkormat right now. When I get it back, I'll let yous know how they did,
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Louis Reynolds says:

Ahh thanks everyone again, I have only tried the pentax virtually 2 minutes ago on some coffee on a granite plate, with kodak 200 film and metering using the iPhone app and my Nikon d3000. I will post the results when developed!

I have considered getting the k1000 serviced, merely that website is in US, :( I am in Manchester :( but thank you for raising that!
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bloewy says:

Did not realize you lot were beyond the pond.
Someone in this group has recommended Harrow Technical, United kingdom. I don't know annihilation about them, but you should Google them.

Equally a personal note from someone who is erstwhile enough to have used some of these cameras when they were new, I tin tell y'all that a adept CLA is the difference between seeing just how good the cameras really are, and thinking that they are archaic throw backs. Similar maintaining your car, these cameras demand to be maintained. They are mechanical after all.
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Louis Reynolds says:

Ahh! Lovely, what is a CLA? A service?
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bloewy says:

Deplorable well-nigh the acronym. Clean, Lubricate, Suit.
Keeps a expert camera feeling similar new, and fixes a lot of the problems that clay and dried out grease crusade.
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Louis Reynolds says:

Ahh I run across haha - cheers!
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paul messerschmidt (europe) says:

Something else to expect out for is light leaks. If the camera has never had its
rubber seals replaced (round the back door) it might not be light-tight - if you go unexpected streaks or similar on your photos information technology could well be that.
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bloewy says:

paul (england):

Over again, a practiced CLA includes:

"shutter lubrication, shutter speed adjustment, meter scale, light seal replacement"
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Louis Reynolds says:

HEY! GOOD NEWS EVERYBODY! The pentax worked beautifully. I used kodak 200 movie, and the app for metering - which also worked impeccably! Visit the set I made called "moving-picture show" to meet the results. Sorry about the noise, that isn't nowadays on the original prints - that is my scanner being an arse, so a little editing in photoshop was needed for dissonance reduction!
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Johnny Martyr says:

Good news to hear Louis! This does non mean that your K1000 does non need to be CLA'd but it's skilful y'all can use it for a while and enjoy it before throwing some cash down.

Btw, you'll get much meliorate results scanning the negs instead of the prints. Scanning is a whole other matter to learn.
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Louis Reynolds says:

Johnny Martyr:

Hej, Johnny.

I volition at some signal care for the automobile to a CLA when i go the cash!

I take recently got my second film developed using dissimilar lighting conditions and the results were awful - the discussion im having is on the "I shoot film" group, its near the acme, and i've simply posted examples of the bad prints and negatives, would be smashing to hav more than input!
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Johnny Martyr says:

Hey Louis, pitiful to hear yous're still having exposure issues.

Unfortunately I have been banned from ISF. I formally was a moderator but wanted to clean the grouping of trolls and my deportment to do so resulted in banning me instead of them. I wish you lot luck with feedback though and of form encourage you to this group.
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Contrabass says:

Is that what happened? What a agglomeration of weirdos. I mostly lurk on ISF, and is at that place any wonder why.

Yep, I think the problem was the expired film. You tin can get interesting results from expired films (I have fun with expired Kodak T-Max P3200 myself) but there'southward a certain corporeality of skill and luck involved in getting good results. For example, with the expired P3200, it took me at least iii rolls of shooting it to settle on my current process: betrayal as 800 and develop as 1600. Tons of grain and still the negatives are workable.

Anyway, keep it up! And remember, better the devil you know than the 1 you don't. This K1000 has some issues, merely better to spend money fixing information technology than running out and buying another, which would be just some other roll of the die...
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Sentpope says:

tattoobatman:

Yeah, merely shoot. Because ownership and developing movie is free these days right?

In regards to the question, I am here because the same affair just happened to me, just under different circumstances.
I bought a used Pentax K1000 ii years ago, the light meter worked peachy until it stopped. Changed the battery and it worked not bad, until at present, a year later. No new battery or extreme light change will become it moving once again. Guess they just have their time to go?
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